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Alaskan Flybox
Old 02-08-2007, 07:32 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Alaskan Flybox

Just an FYI for anyone interested (as I know cst is tying some AK patterns), because I've gotten a couple emails asking about what flys we use up here, I started my own gallery folder called Alaskan Flybox that has the first of many photos I've shot from my bench of the flys I've tied for my clients and myself. Might have some ideas for those looking to whip up some bugs for a trip up north.
I'll upload more over the next few days...when my camera batt is done charging


http://www.hookupsportfishing.com/ga...cat/555/page/1
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Old 02-08-2007, 07:44 PM   #2 (permalink)
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wow that will help a lot. i'll have to check that out today
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Old 02-10-2007, 02:05 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Just posted another 20 flies. More to come.
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Old 02-10-2007, 06:15 PM   #4 (permalink)
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thanks. i just tied up my very first flesh fly. do you usually weight them?
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Old 02-10-2007, 09:14 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cst
thanks. i just tied up my very first flesh fly. do you usually weight them?
Yeah, really depends on the water. Faster deeper runs and I weight them. But for most water you can just give them a good dunking and they get nice and gooey soggy and sink ok. The problem with wieghting them is that you have to throw a heavier rod. 8-9 weight in order to compensate for the soggy blob and the lead, otherwise you get the uncomfortable bounce at the end of a false cast.
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Old 02-10-2007, 10:08 PM   #6 (permalink)
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well i tied them up with weight before i read this response. a bag of strips only produced 8 flies though.
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Old 02-11-2007, 10:42 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
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well i tied them up with weight before i read this response. a bag of strips only produced 8 flies though.
No sweat man, like I said just use them with your stiffer Sage like sticks. It's just like having a delayed action shooting head, hits the end of the cast and pulls itself out.

If you want to save a few bucks on bunny you can buy full pelts from a leather supplier like Tandy or some craft stores carry them in the leather working department. Much cheaper and gives you more flies for your dollar than specialty "fly shop" bunny fur.
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Old 02-12-2007, 02:10 AM   #8 (permalink)
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I've found that if you're shooting a weighted fly out too fast, it can "bounce" or create waves in your line
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Old 02-12-2007, 10:07 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NulodPBall
I've found that if you're shooting a weighted fly out too fast, it can "bounce" or create waves in your line
Absolutely your very correct..but you get a bit of bounce regardless, when you hang a cannonball from a buggy whip.
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Old 02-12-2007, 10:19 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HalibutHunter
Absolutely your very correct..but you get a bit of bounce regardless, when you hang a cannonball from a buggy whip.
===

LOL

It really hurts 'cause I always seem to hit the very center of my back when I get lazy or the wind is blowing the wrong way...and it really sucks when you feel something hit your left ear, and you see your heavy sinking line snaking past your right cheek, and you think "this is really going to hurt" as you're watching that loop snake out...
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Old 02-12-2007, 10:25 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HalibutHunter
Just posted another 20 flies. More to come.
whats the webcite?
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Old 02-12-2007, 10:26 AM   #12 (permalink)
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for those of you interested in the fly pictures but couldnt find his gallery, i put a link to it in Halibut Hunter's original post. I'll also post it down here.
http://www.hookupsportfishing.com/ga...cat/555/page/1



Halibut Hunter: what kind of sculpin patters, if any, do you use?



Quote:
Originally Posted by NulodPBall
===

LOL

It really hurts 'cause I always seem to hit the very center of my back when I get lazy or the wind is blowing the wrong way...and it really sucks when you feel something hit your left ear, and you see your heavy sinking line snaking past your right cheek, and you think "this is really going to hurt" as you're watching that loop snake out...
but thats when you're ugly yellow hat saves you!
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Old 02-12-2007, 01:07 PM   #13 (permalink)
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what kind of expoxy and head glue you use up there? the cold water effect regular stuff?

i got that zap-a gap stuff. not sure if its good or not, and that head cement from cabelas... water based, usless no?
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Old 02-18-2007, 11:51 AM   #14 (permalink)
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CST - We use just about any sculpin patterns we have on hand, our naturals are 1-4 inches long on average and dark brown in color. My personal favorites are the Whitlock Sculpins but they are real time consuming to tie, also just a good old fashioned weighted Muddler works fantastic. But honestly anything that runs deep and looks fishy will pass the bar no sweat. We also have a species of Blackfish (a kind of sculpin) up here that is found usually in the calmer waters that can get rather large. We tend to tie dark brown Wool Sculpins for them. Again though our fish are not picky about wet patterns matching the hatch...hell they love a pattern that looks like a bright purple leech puking up a salmon egg...not picky

Beresford - I don't us anything out of the ordinary for glues and head cements. Good old five minute epoxy for the scuds and shrimps and basic heavy duty head cement. However, I am also the guy that hates intricate flys that blow apart so I tend to use VERY thin super glue (used for making model airplanes and available through hobby/rc shops) with a fine applicator tip to apply a drop to each head before applying cement. The super thin instantly wicks into all the head wraps and locks it tight. It will turn white though if it gets wet so it still needs a coat of head cement to seal, but makes my favorite patterns bulletproof.
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Old 02-18-2007, 12:47 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Posted another 9 patterns althought they got screwy and some doubled and some showed up outside the Alaskan Flybox gallery, if somebody could clue me in as to deleting photos on this board I can clean it up a bit. Thnx
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