Hmmm...was it 333? I happen to love Cortland 444, high float versions.
Pretty much all line will curl, with the more you pay, usually less curl (max for the higher end lines tends to be about $60.00...anything beyond that price will be a specialty line). That's partly what the Large Arbor reels are about, less curl. That's also why you put as much backing on your flyreel as possible. You want it so that it's just a little bit less than what you can take, before your flyline hits the reel frame. That's with a messy wind, not a clean, flat wind.
Also, another thing to do when you're ready to fish, is find a smooth tree trunk, or a buddy with a spare hand, grab the end of your fly line and let out about as much line as you're going to lay out, then gently, but firmly stretch your fly line several times...until it is straighter than it was before. Then reel in your line and start casting...or paddling

The stretching thing helps alot.
Also if you buy flyline, don't buy it in a low volume place (like Walmart), try to buy it from a place that sells ALOT of flyline. That way you know it's fresh from the factory, and it hasn't been sitting on the shelf for five years. I've had a shop owner call me when he was excited about a special run of fly line, fresh from the factory...I bought the line the next day after arrival.
Some people take their flyline off their reels during the off season to prevent coils. There are big wooden or metal winding devices made for this purpose. You can easily make one yourself (a large hatbox, or cablespool?). In California, there really isn't an offseason though. Not for flyfishing
One hint (or several):
Don't skimp on the heavy leader/buttsection your using between you and the indicator (it isn't always heavy). Use a line straightener or just rub the leader (along it's long axis) quickly with your bare hands, then stretch and hold it tight. That should straighten it out, and when you are holding the line in your left hand (if you're right handed) as you should be, move your left hand tward your first rod guide, and if you set the hook, strip your left hand down below your left hip. It will cause you to take up twice as much line as if you just put your right index finger on the line and raised your rod. Your right and your left hands should both be in motion when you set the hook.
If you're midging, set the hook if your indicator even looks at you funny...yes, I've argued with a guide while my indicator went upstream and didn't set my hook...I've also seen days where the indicator only makes one ring, and that's the only chance you get at setting the hook.
For midging, you don't need an expensive rod...heck, you could do it with a long pole and the line tied to the butt of the pole if you liked, as long as the pole bends easily...you could even fish with a Walmart special, but I'd upgrade the line if you could afford it. Don't skimp on your leader material though, buy the best that you can afford, and 4x seems to be an okay size. I'm a believe in fluorocarbon, but I've also been told that flurocarbon is only needed on cloudy days.
In conclusion (I have my thumbs in my suspenders), just ask the shop owner for his/her opinion and tell them what you want. Don't buy your line from someplace that can't help you. The line you're using now may be good enough, just stretch it a little
Ray